As all boat owners are probably aware, naturally owning the boat is the first base goal: Next, if you don't want the thing to collapse gradually around you and ultimately sink, you have got to keep it in good order. In other words, you have to vocalize it. Usually, the end result is that the boat stays safe and keeps going, a bit like your car.
Whilst the word 'maintenance' is synonymous with 'work' there is normally the hard way to advent it or the easy way. The hard way is to grovel around in the dark, without the permissible gear, using a kitchen knife to endeavor to undo a screw that has been screwed tight adequate to stop the undercarriage dropping off a Jumbo jet! This will not do. We have to be fully ready for most scenarios and this is where a bloody good logical, sensible, onboard tool kit comes into the picture. I might add here, the emphasis is onboard. Not under any circumstances, to be taken ashore, to double up as gear for fixing the lawnmower or, God forbid, the fridge. This original 'piece of equipment' may save you and your boat at some point in the time to come so it must all the time be at arm's reach, night and day, a friend in need, as it were.
SHOCK YOU LIKE AN ELECTRIC EEL
If you were to take any two boats in a marina and do a spot check on their tool kits you may be in for a shock. All owners appear to have differing priorities when it comes to D.I.Y. Onboard. Remember too, we learn as we live. If you see something that might save your bacon on a terrible night, buy it and add it to the stash without a second thought.
Some Basics (Not Necessarily In Order Of Priority!)
Lighting - A rechargeable torch from person like 'Kambrook' with thousands of candlepower units that can light every projection with astonishing brilliance...even in daylight.
More lighting! - A 'miners lamp' type of headset torch can leave the hands free even in rough weather for tricky jobs.
Knife - A good sharp knife is a must. It matters not if the blade folds or is open, as long as it can cut well. A expedient for sharpening the blade is a must, like a Swiss tungsten steel 'Istor' for example (To be found in good hardware stores).
Scissors - In fact any distinct sizes, some throwaway, some good steel, they come in handy for all sorts of things and cut wire in a pinch.
Pliers - I like electrician's heavy-duty, insulated handles with cutting blades made from good steel. They are expensive but invaluable. A good back up are needle nose tongs at least four inches long.
Screwdrivers - Every one has a screwdriver on board, don't they? trouble is, they are all the time too long, too short, bent and covered in grease or paint. Get a full-boxed set, flat bladed and Philips head and make sure they are at least 'Stanley' quality. Some habitancy like reversible bladed types but beware the 'Taiwan terrors' that melt on perceive with a screw head. Oh oh! Don't forget a small set of watchmaker's screwdrivers for those maddenly tiny screws that live in the back of electronic gear.
Hammers - Four distinct hammers are a priority. A nylon/rubber headed type for inflicting blows without damage, a small ball peen 'toffee hammer' type and a pointed 'ice pick' or welder's hammer for rust and scale. The last is a good heavy sensible hammer for serious thumping when required.
Vice Grips - Two pairs, one eight inch, good potential stainless and a small pair of needle nosed type for awkward corners. Don't be tempted to buy cheapo here, you will all the time regret the decision later.
Wrenches or adjustable spanners - Two or three types needed here. Cheapos wear quickly and allow play to ruin the keeping potential of these tools. Two almost the same size allow a nut and bolt to be undone. One undoubtedly large one is handy for unexpected jobs such as loosening a tightening the gland nut on the stern tube or even the prop nut.
Drills - Two types here. One a cordless drill with a charger. all the time use a keyless chuck. A drill without a chuck key is about as useless as the titanic with an outboard motor. Note: If you have a cordless drill that the battery has died on, you can revive it by soldering two wires, determined and negative, onto the two battery terminals inside the drill handle. These wires can join two alligator clips and be attached to a battery and the drill be used anywhere. Ensure the leads are at least a metre long. Finally, a decent set of metal twist drills with at least two spare small size drills should complete the set up for drilling. You can, if room allows, bring a hand drill for accident use.
Spanners - It all the time seems like you have never got adequate of the things. Ring spanners, metric and imperial, good quality, on a folding roll.
Electrical nylon ties - What a great invention these things are! Ensure you have any sizes from 30 cms to 5 cms long. They are lifesavers for just about every job where things need to be secured whether constantly or temporarily. A quick snip with the tongs frees them instantly. I undoubtedly invested five bucks on a packet of 're-usable' ones but the ones I bought from Bunnings undoubtedly work loose... A great idea, but no cigar this time!
Adhesives - any types are a must. Super glue tubes, at least two or three. A tube of silicon or similar. Also a tube of 3M 5200 marine glue. I have also found that the two-pack waterproof epoxy all purpose 'knead it' by Selleys is superb for all kinds of quick repairs. Especially in wet areas, it will even cure underwater... A must! (Note: They have any in their 'knead it' range so make sure you get the one that states Aqua for wet areas).
Tape - Masking tape, electrical, brown parcel tape and self-amalgamating tape for those 'must be dry' jobs.
Axe - A good axe for severing ropes, cables and breaking free in an emergency.
Lubricant - A can of grease and a can of moisture displacing lubricant like Wd40. Also a small jar of petroleum jelly for such jobs as reluctant 'O' rings and hose pipes.
Hose Clamps - A plastic box bull of varied size stainless steel hose clamps... As many as you can afford.
Electrical requirements - These can be many and varied but you can't go wrong with the basics. Good potential electrical connectors and crimping tools pay huge dividends in the long term reliability. A good pair of 'side cutters' with insulated handles for all size cables is also important for quick and effective repairs. Red and black electrical cables (different amperages) and the means to solder them is undoubtedly important, especially if cruising. A small butane or propane soldering torch (refillable) is advisable. Don't forget heat shrink tubing for waterproof joins and it is undoubtedly important that an electrical 'multimeter' be purchased and a good book on how to recognize and fix onboard electrical problems. (Don Casey's book on boat electrics called 'Sailboat Electrics Simplified' published by International marine - McGraw Hill available from Boatbooks, (Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne would be a good guide). A working knowledge of how to understand and fix basic electrical faults could be the disagreement between disaster and success on any offshore trip. Also, don't forget the soldering wire, self fluxing is good for fast, effective joins.
Today we are lucky to have entrance to undoubtedly good cheap 240/12 volt invertors to run your power tools. The usual power tools can be carried onboard but we won't go into too much information in this article about what to carry. number one on my list however, would be an angle grinder/sander.
Hardware - This can vary enormously but should consist of some of the following:
· Stainless wood screws (assorted)
· Stainless nuts, bolts and washers (assorted)
· Stainless split pins (assorted)
· Spare small size drills
· Fuses (if applicable)
· Bulbs for lights and torches
· Files, metal and varied (needle files too)
· Iron or steel wire
· Plastic spring clips (large and small)
· G-clamps (assorted sizes)
Before you start writing.....I know that each and every person may have priorities but I have left to the very end two additions to the above so they may stick in your mind. One is a total must, the other a luxury, but nevertheless, worthy of note.
The absolute must is a set of serious bolt cutters for disengaging fallen rigging along with a good hacksaw and blades.
The luxury item that I love above all is my variable speed, Ryobi and Bosch abrasive and sander. I can say they have saved me more time and endeavor sanding, cutting and repairing boats that I care to think of.....
Your onboard tool kit is more than a convenience, it is a total number one priority to be treated with respect and care. Ask a mate of mine, Kenny, who foolishly balanced his tool kit on the coaming whilst he unlocked a hatch after a break down at sea. After realising what the huge splash was, Kenny drifted for two days until he was discovered by chance. Kenny (whose box of tea bags went down with the tools) ruefully recalls that "Most habitancy don't realise you can get fifteen cups of tea from a used tea bag"..... Personally, I think he was lucky, very lucky!
If you liked the cut of this article and would like Terry to write one for your magazine or newsletter naturally perceive http://www.dolphinboatplans.com or if you would like to read similar articles go to http://www.ezinearticles.com
The Onboard Toolbox SHOCK YOU LIKE AN ELECTRIC EEL
0 comments:
Post a Comment